Before the shut down in March, we spent some time with a member of the newest group of brilliant French vignerons, Thibaud Clerget of Pommard. The 28th generation to lead his historic Domaine Yvon Clerget, Thibaud was essentially anointed as the next star of the Côte de Beaune in 2015 and has already built a reputation for impeccable farming and classically chiseled wines.
The 2018s arriving are his finest to date, and will only add to the growing legend of this engaging and passionate Burgundian. Whether it’s blind tasting over dinner or kicking stones in the vineyards of Volnay, it’s impossible not to fall in love with the infectious humor, heart, and enthusiasm of this supremely gifted and generous human.
Please take a listen and you’ll see what we mean:
A Timestamped Outline of the Interview:
00:11 – History of the Domaine
2:05 – Thibaud’s first vintage
4:51 – What Thibaud has fine-tuned since 2015
7:09 – Farming Philosophy
9:47 – The ’15, ’16, ’18, + ’19 Vintages
11:52 – The Next Generation of Winemakers in Burgundy
13:46 – What’s next for Domaine Yvon Clerget
The Wines
Meursault ‘Les Chevalieres’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
One of the top lieu-dit in Meursault | Adjacent to Meix Chavaux, Tesson, and Luchets | 45+ year old vines | Indigenous yeast | Aged in barrel (20% new) | Finished in tank for 4 months | VM:90-92
Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Yvon Clerget
From two lieu dits: ‘Les Longbois’ (Volnay) and ‘Les Durots’ (Meursault) | 35+ year old vines | Indigenous yeast | De-stemmed | Aged in 2-3 year old barrels
From 2 lieu-dits in Volnay: ‘Ez Echards’ (Just below 1er En Champans) and ‘Les Petit Gamets’ | 1 ha total | 45+ year old vines | De-stemmed | Indigenous yeast | Aged in 2-3 year old barrels | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:90-92
Volnay 1er ‘Carelle Sous La Chapelle’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
‘Carelle sous la Chappelle’ refers to the old chapel on the road at the bottom of the village | Directly below 1er Cru Bousse d’Or | 45+ year old vines | Southeast exposure | De-stemmed | Indigenous yeast | Aged in barrel (20% new) | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:92-94
Volnay 1er ‘Santenots’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
30+ year old vine | Red limestone with clay | East Exposure | 280 m altitude | De-stemmed | Indigenous yeast | Aged in barrel (20% new) | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:91-93
Volnay 1er ‘Les Mitans’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
45+ year old vines | Clay-limestone soils | 280 m altitude | 50% whole cluster | Indigenous yeast | Aged in barrel (50% new) | 2 barrels made | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:90-92
Volnay 1er ‘Clos du Verseuil Monopole’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
Found between 1er Cru Taille Pieds and 1er Bousse d’Or | 0.6 ha parcel | 40+ year old vines | East exposure | Clay, with heavier limestone and rock | De-stemmed | Indigenous yeast | Aged in barrel (30% new) | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:91-93
Volnay 1er ‘Champans’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
50+ year old vines | Limestone close to the surface of the steep slope | 280m altitude | De-stemmed | Indigenous yeast | Aged in a 1 year-old barrel | 1 barrel made | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:93-95
Pommard 1er ‘Les Rugiens’, Domaine Yvon Clerget
Considered one of the top 1er Crus in Pommard | 40+ year old vines | Very rocky red soil due to high iron oxide content | Limestone close to the surface of the steep slope | 320m altitude | 20% whole cluster | Indigenous yeast | Aged in barrel (20% new) | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:93-95
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Yvon Clerget
From the top section of Clos de Vougeot, near the Chateau | Parcel adjacent to Anne Gros and Méo Camuzet | Section named ‘Grand Maupertui’ | 40+ year old vines | Indigenous yeast | 50% whole cluster | Aged in barrel (40% new) | Unfined and unfiltered | VM:91-93