Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Selbach-Oster
ZELTINGER SONNENUHR: is the Premier Grand Cru. Slate, lime, apple, butter-vanilla, rich, almost chewy earthiness, great depth. Some parcels are prized by locals as the best sites in the entire Bernkastel-Zeltingen ramp-DOKTOR notwithstanding! These wines are fullbodied. Selbachs are now the primo owners in this great site, and have inaugurated an era of elective harvesting and a quality potential such as we have never before seen.
Though one has to wonder how viable this is in the climate-change era, where the grapes are often too ripe for “Kabinett” in this markedly well-situated vineyard. We got a reprieve in ’13 and ’14, but still. The wine is wonderful; again drier-seeming than usual, with a billowing texture that crescendos into a lovely complex and firm finale. This was the 3rd-to-last Mosel estate I tasted, and believe me—it was another world. — Terry Theise
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