Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese** ‘Herzlay’, Christoffel
“This is always from the same parcel, and it cannot produce more than forty hectoliters per hectare,” says Hans-Leo. “We‘ve had at least Spätlese from this site in every vintage except 1991. I could make these wines heavier, but it goes against my philosophies. The day I can‘t make wines like these any more is the day I‘ll pack it in.” It‘s down below, to the right of the sundial, in case you want to locate it.
The mise-en-scene was my colleagues and me around a long rectangular table, and at this point they were all talking and laughing, Johannes (Selbach), his mother Sigrid, his son Sebastian, Hans-Leo (Christoffel) and Robert (Eymael), and it became a warm background hum, reassuring somehow, the purring engine of a community. It let me detach and just taste the wine, which was wicky and fibrous and reminded me of what granny smith apples used to be like before the modern breeders destroyed them. A little botrytis appears now; the wine, again, is threading the sweetness needle, and is as much food as wine. — Terry Theise
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