Wiener Symphoniker' Roter Veltliner

It isn’t a mutated Grüner, though it tastes like an aspect of GV, the shiitake and roasted pepper side, without the citrics and leaves. The vine requires a dedicated grower, and its proponents are more like “protectors” than just vintners. I didn’t go in search of it but it kind of found me, via Setzer (and Ecker), and when I like it I offer it to you.

The ’16 is exotic and roasty, like a capon roasted with chiogga beets and yellow peppers. The nearest cognate may be earthy white Rhône; some beeswax, some old-school Rioja, some leafy minty spice; a swashbuckling, flourishing wine that plays by its own rules.