Rauenthal Nonnenberg [Monopol] Riesling Trocken

I find this to be the spirit-kin of Alzinger’s Höhereck, something both numinous and inexplicable, with flavors you never imagined finding in something called “wine.” This is markedly clear in the ’17, which is a straightforward above-ground rendition, like the cool breeze after a squall. All to the good! Mysterious flowers, apricot blossom and Cox’s orange pippin; the finish is like chewing iris petals; searching, angular, bewitching. Top Rauenthalers have the mysteries of great Nahe Rieslings, and we’d know this better if there were only more top Rauenthalers (this commune is ground-zero for Rheingau underachieving, alas).

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