Chardonnay Trocken

Score

93

"An excellent example of the new German chardonnays that you could easily mistake for village wines from St. Aubin in Burgundy. Very flinty, with bright candied lemon peel and wild herb aromas. Medium-bodied with a compact, chalky tannin structure and a long finish. A cuvee of mature and young vines from organically grown grapes. Matured in 25% new oak and 75% used oak barrique casks. Drink or hold."

Score

16.5+

"Extreme struck-match character. Herbal and fumy. I like reduction but this is extreme, especially on the palate. There's clearly attractive ripe citrus and tangy grapefruit underneath but the winemaking may just be a little too intrusive for some, though I guess it might change with aeration/bottle age, hence the pluses. Long and dramatic. (JH)"

Score

93

"The 2022 Chardonnay was grown in the Goldberg, Honigberg and Eselspfad and fermented in barrique and tonneaux, with about 30% new wood. Cream, flint, lemon and chalk unite on the nose. The palate displays immense cohesion, as all these elements seem readily combined and perfectly aligned to flow. This flinty, crackling yet utterly soothing wine has verve and exquisite acidity, despite full malolactic fermentation. It expresses itself with such clarity and energy. (Bone-dry)"