Champagne Special Club Millesime, Hebrart
cépage 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay
info/source 35% old vine Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru (‘Faubourg d’Enfer,’ ‘Croix Blanche,’ ‘Pruche’) 20% Pinot Noir from Aÿ Grand Cru (‘Cheuzelles,’ ‘Pierre Robert,’ ‘Le Léon’) 25% old vine Chardonnay from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru (‘Beauregard,’ ‘Ramonette’
and ‘Buisson Saint Loup’) and 20% Chardonnay from Oiry Grand Cru and Chouilly Grand Cru
élevage Stainless steel
sur latte 48 months
Vallee de la Marne
The wine stole into the market late last year and I could only glance at it; this was my first real taste. It immediately takes its place among the elite Club bottlings in the 20 years I’ve been doing this, Gimonnet 2002 and 2008, Chiquet 2008, Hébrart’s own 2002 and 2008, and to me it offers every single thing we can wish for from young Champagne.
An astonishing fragrance, a little like the 2006, actually. Masterly and serene, with a freaky-long finish that runs a pure fruit throughout its many octaves and registers. Ur-fruit and all fruits, with chalk as a discreet fellow-traveler, but only at first; with the second pour the chalk soars to the front. For a wine of such repose this has hyperactive interplay, like somebody doing an incredibly complicated trick and making it look easy.
The wine: Disg. 04/2017. 35% PN Mareuil old-vines from the climats Faubourg d’Enfer, Croix Blanche and Pruche. 20% PN from Aÿ, from Cheuzelles, Les Pierres Robert and Le Léon. 25% CH from Mareuil old-vines, from Beauregard, Ramonette and Buisson Saint Loup. Finally 20% CH, a Coeur de Cuvée from Oiry and Chouilly. And when you get your copy of Peter Liem’s stunning new Champagne book—out this Fall—you’ll get maps that show where these sites are.
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