Champagne ‘Grand Cellier’ (New Label), Vilmart & Cie
cépage 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir
assemblage 50% 2013, 25% 2012, 25% 2011
info/source 2 parcels in Rilly-la-Montagne 1er Cru – ‘Les Hautes Grèves’ & ‘Les Basses Grèves’
élevage 10 months in large oak casks
sur latte 24+ Months
Montagne de Reims
This smelled good in every glass, and the palate was more integrated (“fondu”) than is often the case at this stage. The palate was somewhat ragged in the Juhlin but from the Lehmann it’s all buttercakes and vanilla bean and salted white chocolate. The best young Grand Cellier in many years. It bears mentioning that many tasters find this wine hugely impressive and high-impact. I like and respect its energy and originality, but I have—alas!—had 4-5 year old examples, and they spoiled me.
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Press & Reviews
The Vilmart NV Brut Grand Cellier is 70-30 Chardonnay-Pinot and based on vintage 2010, with its two immediate predecessors in supporting roles. It comes from two parcels in Rilly and was aged for 10 months in foudre before going to bottle for 16 months of secondary fermentation and maturation. Fresh apple is tinged with mint and tarragon on a polished palate, picking up subtle chalkiness and saliva-liberating salinity en route to a long juicy finish. This harbors ten grams of residual sugar, but you don’t notice it as such. There is an interactivity of toasty, chalky, and smoky elements with the fruit and herbs that goes beyond that exhibited in the Grande Reserve, though the latter displays more sheer energy, succulence, refreshment and length
Laurent Champs crafts impeccable, elegant Champagnes of the highest level. The Vilmart Champagnes are so delicious when they are released I doubt too many are purchased for cellaring, but the reality is that the wines also age exceptionally well.
- Antonio Galloni
This mouthwatering bubbly layers a finely textured mousse with flavors of green apple, grapefruit zest, star fruit and spice. Lively and very harmonious, with a long, lingering finish. Drink now through 2016. –AN
(70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir, mostly from 2010 and the rest from 2009 and 2008; aged for 16 months on its lees and disgorged in November, 2012): Green-tinged yellow. Fresh pear, nectarine and honeysuckle aromas are complemented by smoky minerals and gingery spices. Deep, chewy orchard fruit flavors are brightened by hints of Meyer lemon and orange zest and firmed by a note of smoky minerality. Powerful but elegant brut with juicy acidity providing strong finishing lift and bite.