Champagne, ‘Cuvee Reserve’, Pierre Peters
cépage 100% Chardonnay
assemblage 2010 base for the first half of the year / 2011 for the second half
info/source Côte des Blancs Grand Cru
malo yes, 85%
élevage Stainless steel, oak cask and concrete on fine lees
sur latte 60+ months
Cote de Blancs
We are talking superb aromas: a riot of flowers, lobster and brioche. It’s unusually ripe, dynamic and powerful, and also quite settled-tasting, with a long deep clinging finish.
We’re just finishing up the ’12-based wine, which will soon be superseded by the even more amazing ’13, which is the best“basic” NV in the offering this year and one of the best anywhere in Champagne.
I remember tasting the still wines of 2013 and wondering where those aromas and flavors could possibly have come from. Please let me remind you, this wine is made by the “perpetual reserve” method, which is similar but not identical to a solera. Thus, the current wine is 50% 2013 and 50% the previous blend, which in turn was 50% ’12 and 50% of the blend before that, including 1988, ‘90 ‘93 and 1995 through 2012.
This wine has a fantastic aroma, stunningly complex and floral and like really good cheesecake; the palate is by far the best since the 2008-base, and punches absurdly above its weight. Deg 05/2017, believe me, I don’t need to hype this—we’re already oversold. Just be glad for any bottle you get.
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Press & Reviews
Peters' 2010-dominated NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvee de Reserve Disg. 3/2013 - representing the cuvee that makes up more than 60% of his annual production - features juicy apple and white peach, lime and honeydew tinged with the piquancy of their pip and pit; wreathed in gentian and hyacinth; and supplemented by yeast autolysis that shades into notes of roasted peanut and toasted almond. Silken-textured and expansive, yet buoyant and refreshing, this finishes with a predictable underlying sense of oyster shell chalkiness and saliva-liberating salinity as well as a hint of iodine. Bottles from this disgorgement ought to merit attention for several years (symptomatically, a half bottle consumed this August proved more expressive than 750s tasted before and after); as will also, naturally, later disgorgements of this same cuvee.
A crowd-pleasing, aperitif-style version, featuring an open-knit mix of white peach, star fruit, almond and brioche, with fresh acidity. Refined, offering a mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2018. -A.N.
(mostly from 2010, but includes wines from every vintage from 1988 through 2008 except for 1999 and 2003; aged for two years on its lees and disgorged on March 12, 2013): Light gold. Highly perfumed bouquet of yellow apple, pear skin and quinine, with a smoky mineral overtone. Spicy orchard and candied citrus fruit flavors are complemented by notes of sweet butter and anise and gain weight with air. The impressively focused finish shows strong mineral cut and lingering spiciness.
The NV Brut Grand Cru Cuvée de Réserve is very, very pretty. The energy and tension of the base vintage, 2010, is rounded out by the addition of reserve wines. Even with all its pure drive, the Cuvée de Réserve is creamy, layered, expressive and drop-dead gorgeous to the core. Lemon oil, grapefruit, green apples, white flowers and mint linger on the pointed finish. This is an exceptional showing. Readers who want to understand what makes the Peters Champagnes so special should start here. The Cuvée de Réserve is 2010 plus reserve wines that go back to 1988. This bottle was disgorged in March 2013.