Champagne ‘Cuvee de Reserve’ Brut, Hebrart
cépage 82% Pinot Noir, 18% Chardonnay
assemblage 47% 2013, 29% 2012, 24% 2011
info/source Pinot Noir is from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru, Avenay Val d’Or 1er Cru,
Bisseuil 1er Cru, and Hautvillers 1er Cru; Chardonnay from
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1er Cru
élevage Stainless Steel
sur latte 24 months
Vallee de la Marne
This is the most precise articulation of PN you’ll ever taste in Champagne, and this is a glorious edition of this (absurdly) “basic” NV. The fruit is ample yet weightless, the flavors are written in calligraphy yet not “precious,” and this ostensibly ordinary material occupies an ether, until it returns with a spider-fine yet Pinot-earthy finish. It’s complex. 47% 2014—31% 2013—22% 2012. Disg 8/2016. 82% is PN from Mareuil, Avenay Val D’Or, Bisseuil and Hautvillers. 18% is CH from Mareuil.
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Press & Reviews
While most non-vintage Hebrart wines are nonetheless dominated by a single vintage, his NV Brut Cuvee Reserve represents the exception, in this instance comprising close to half-each 2009 and 2007. Apple and lime laced with cilantro and garlanded in bittersweetly perfumed iris make for a fascinating aromatic display that presages the juicy, metaphorically cool, herb- and flower-tinged, mouth-coating palate impression. Soothing, sustained, and subtly interactive, the finish offers a fine sense of transparency to nuances including the chalky sort. I imagine this will merit following for at least a couple more years.
Firm and mouthwatering with racy acidity, this features a core of ground spice, fresh ginger and citrus zest, with a minerally undertow layered with fresh-cut quince and poached pear. Creamy finish. Disgorged July 2012. Drink now through 2020. –AN
(82% pinot noir and 18% chardonnay; disgorged in March, 2013 after 25 months on its lees): Pale yellow. Aromas and flavors of citrus pith, dried fig, quince and chalky minerals. Dry and precise, with subtle florality, zesty mineral lift and a late kick of bitter cherry pit. Finishes dry and long, with persistent orange zest and chalk notes.
This is 60 percent 2007, blended with 40 percent of reserve wines from 2006 and 2005; 81 percent of it is pinot noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay Val d’Or and Bisseuil, while the other 19 percent is Mareuil chardonnay. It’s racy and zesty, marked by its acidity, and it takes its time to emerge in the glass, the initial aromas of lemon peel and grapefruit pith giving way to the bright red-fruit notes of the Grande Vallée. It’s harmoniously balanced and promises to develop well—2007 was a difficult vintage in this sector, as Mareuil-sur-Aÿ had two bad bouts of hail, but Hébrart seems to have navigated the challenges very successfully. Last tasted: 3/10
Chalk, white pear, apples and jasmine jump out of the glass in the Cuvée de Reserve. Energetic, tense and wiry, the Cuvée de Reserve is all about focus. The aromas and flavors are beautifully nuanced in this crystalline, expressive Champagne. Hints of slate and graphite add an attractive mineral dimension on the finish. The Cuvée de Réserve is 82% Pinot Noir and 18% Chardonnay, all done in steel, 55% 2009 and 45% 2007 vintages. This bottle was disgorged in March 2013.