Alto Piemonte: A Region on the Rise

Ninety miles northeast of Alba, hidden at the base of the Italian Alps, is the little-known winegrowing area of Alto Piemonte. The region, which acquired its name more for its high altitude than for its relative location to the Langhe (the name literally translates to ‘high Piedmont’), is an Alpine paradise set amid forest-clad hills on the banks of the Sesia River.

Once Italy’s largest and most important region for Nebbiolo production, Alto Piemonte’s vineyards stretched as far as the eye could see. But in the late 1800s the area was decimated by phylloxera, and many growers did not have the means to replant their costly, terraced vines.  To make matters worse, the Alto Piemonte was virtually abandoned after World War II, as the booming industrial revolution led to a mass exodus from the countryside. With high-paying factory jobs in the cities available to everyone, why spend days working in the vineyards to earn a fraction of the salary? By the end of the war, the once 40,000 hectares of vines was diminished to less than 600 hectares. Forests overtook the vineyards, and most people did not return from the cities to reclaim what they had left behind.

Over the last two decades the Alto Piemonte has experienced a renaissance, with the next generation discovering a newfound passion for the countryside and its wines. Tiziano Mazzoni, whose father left the region after the war, reconnected to his family history by acquiring 1.5 hectares of Ghemme in 1999. Vallana and Antoniolo, who remained steadfast during the region’s difficult times, continue to make wines of exceptional quality from their vineyards in Gattinara and beyond.

Revitalization in the region has contributed to the reappearance of terroir-driven, handmade wines ranging in style from traditional to modern, rustic to polished. While the Langhe showcases a beautiful expression of Nebbiolo, especially in Barolo and Barbaresco, no collection is complete without the charming, highly aromatic, and cellar-worthy wines of Alto Piemonte. Best of all, these appellations are still relatively unknown and therefore present incredible value to consumers. The Alto Piemonte, it turns out, is a wine-lovers’ dream where quality and affordability are not mutually exclusive.

GATTINARA

Vineyards were originally planted in Gattinara, the largest and well-known region of the Alto Piemonte, by the Roman Empire in the 2nd century, BC. The area was at one time completely carpeted with vines, but today just over 100ha of vineyards remain. Soils are rocky, granitic, and iron-rich.  Wines are produced from Nebbiolo, which can be blended with up to 10% total of Uva Rara (Bonarda di Gattinara) and/or Vespolina. They must be aged for a minimum of 35 months, 24 of which must be in wood. Riserva level bottlings must age 47 months, with a minimum of 36 months in wood. DOCG status was granted in 1990.

Producer(s): Vallana, Antoniolo

GHEMME

Located across the Sesia River to the east of Gattinara at an elevation of 300 meters above sea level, vineyards were originally planted here in the 5th century, BC. Soils are sandier than Gattinara. Wines are produced from a minimum of 85% Nebbiolo, which can be blended with a total of 15% Vespolina and/or Uva Rara. They must be aged for a minumum of 34 months, 18 of which are spent in wood. Riservas age 46 months, with 24 months in wood. Ghemme became an offical DOCG in 1997.

Producer(s): Tiziano Mazzoni

BOCA

At 450-500 meters above sea level, Boca is the highest winegrowing region in all of Piedmont, with ancient volcanic soils that date back to the formation of the Alps. The vineyards are shaped in a natural amphitheater.  Wines are produced from 70-90% Nebbiolo, blended with up to 30% Uva Rara and/or Vespolina. They must be aged for a minimum of 22 months, with 18 months spent in wood. Boca was granted DOC status in 1969.

Producer(s):  Vallana