Vintage Champagne Brut, Henri Billiot
It’s smoky, meaty and very good, quite noir but fresh; enveloping, luxurious yet bracing as ’07s often are. The empty-glass aromas are like an essence of Ambonnay. Laetitia is exploring reducing the dosage in their wines, and I agree this would be welcome provided the wines can handle it. If you don’t do malo a too-dry wine can taste tart. A vintage like 2007 emphasizes this tendency. But I applaud them; they’re tasting and thinking instead of merely adapting to whatever’s trendy at the moment.