Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben, Brundlmayer
Truly an amazing masterpiece, and the wine I most admired of anything I tasted in Austria.
Please remember how toxic many Austrians feel the 2014s to be. Growers start out on the defensive with any ’14, and when a wine like this appears they are ready to gnash their teeth and wail. “If there is a great 2014 Riesling, I have it in my glass,” one of us said as this wine was tasted. No “if” about it, friend. This is a great Riesling.
Not “in spite of” 2014—because of it. Of course, there was no end of botrytis-ridden dross among ’14 Rieslings, but that only heightens ones astonishment that a wine like this could be achieved. Bründlmayer has made any number of splendid wines over the past quarter century, but I’m here to testify: nothing should make them prouder than this very Riesling.
It’s an apotheosis of green depth, primordial; a forest-floor the sun barely ever touches. A wine that knows the dark because it can only go darkly. Perfect balance and deliciousness in a sapid green vein of pure mystery. The seeker finds his way to this, doesn’t understand it, and is happy. Sits with it. Imagines the old monks who created Chartreuse. Thinks of the meadows, wafting the breath of the warm afternoon, and the blender sitting while the dark comes on.
Beautiful, inscrutable, it is the wine of some new language. – Terry Theise
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