Riesling Steiner Hund, Nikolaihof
This leapfrogs over the ’11, which needs more time in the cellar. It’s complex and mysterious, still opening the morning
shutters. The outline is clear but the details are obscure. It tastes beautiful but won’t yield to deconstruction. Why force it?
There’s more here than it has the voice to say right now.
The vineyard itself is one of Riesling’s noblest yet most inscrutable homes. The range of minerals and herbs it shows is nearly
indescribable, if not incomprehensible. It also conveys a charge, as if space-dudes would land their ships here, or if you tried to
catalogue the terroir using a Geiger-counter and the machine blew up in your hands. – Terry Theise
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