Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese, Donnhoff
Dönnhoff’s monopole site along the river, in which the soil visibly changes in the space of about 100 yards – four times. The past few years it has given Helmut’s weightiest wines. Amazing: from these 2.5 acres come white wines more noble and complex than any on this earth from one of the greatest vintners alive!
Energy again. These Späts are not sedate, but this has the juicy mid-palate of the Kahlenberg but with infinitely more mineral. Perfect balance both in gross elements (sugar/acid) and fine elements (body/vigor/juice/texture); the juice of a hundred heirloom apples, and at the end, one last needle-brush of acidity. — Terry Theise
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