Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Donnhoff
For over 100 years, the Hermannshöhle has been rated the best site in the Nahe and is therefore the bench mark by which all other vineyards in the region are judged. This site takes its name from a small mine (Höhle which actually means “cave”) in the middle of the hillside. Hermann comes Herms, the Greek guardian of messengers and travelers, which might indicate that at one point this was an area of ancient worship. The soils are mostly black slate mixed with extrusive igneous rock, porphyry and limestone.
All of these had remarkable aspects and potentials but none of them was ready to rock. Felsenberg has tremendous aroma,
almost fiercely smoky, with lemon and Indonesian peppers. Dellchen is fleshier but also, as is its wont, more inscrutable.
Hermannshöhle was still on its first lees but was already showing depth and fragrance. If my “plusses” matter to you, and if I let
myself prognosticate, it’s two for Felsenberg and Hermannshöhle and one for Dellchen. The wines will surely make a fool of me. – Terry Theise
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