Gruner Veltliner ‘8000’, Setzer
From a vineyard called Laa, the goal here is to show the effects of highly dense vineyard plantings—8000 vines per hectare—
the idea being to stress each vine and cause it to plunge its roots deep in search of water.
In some years this spills over its alcoholic banks, but the ’13 was masterly and this may be just as good. Semolina and pepper;
it has its intensity and creaminess but not its sometimes over-ripeness; it’s like a cream of basmati with herbs; monumental in its
way, like a Hiedler Thal but cooler. The finish is all tapioca. – Terry Theise
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