Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #14, Willi Schaefer
GRAACHER DOMPROBST: I doubt there’s a better site on the “great ramp” (as Hugh Johnson terms it) between Bernkastel and Zeltingen. Domprobst is invariably starched and magnificent; its flavors are always standing at attention. It has a particularly emphatic slate statement, with nuances of pistachio or pecan, cassis and quince. Medium-bodied, high-bred and snappy, coltish and itchy to take off full-gallop.
Clean botrytis and what the Germans call Beerenton, which connotes the beginnings of BA character and also denotes the taste of overripe berries. And yet, there’s nothing dainty nor confected about this, and it isn’t “dessert wine.” What is it then? A parfait of exquisite fruit riding an F-16 of slate and acidity. Riding on it, not inside it. — Terry Theise
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