Graacher Domprobst Riesling BA, Willi Schaefer
GRAACHER DOMPROBST: I doubt there’s a better site on the “great ramp” (as Hugh Johnson terms it) between Bernkastel and Zeltingen. Domprobst is invariably starched and magnificent; its flavors are always standing at attention. It has a particularly emphatic slate statement, with nuances of pistachio or pecan, cassis and quince. Medium-bodied, high-bred and snappy, coltish and itchy to take off full-gallop.
All you can say, now, is that it’s clear and sleek. The rest is either self-evident (that it’s concentrated) or premature (specific cognates). Seems like it may become wonderfully piquant and “green,” and geezers like me will maybe remember the great 1990, which was similar in its infancy. — Terry Theise
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