Champagne ‘Expression’ Brut, Rene Geoffroy
The grapes come from Premier Cru sites in Cumieres and Hautvillers.
Vallee de la Marne
Probably the best version of this wine I’ve ever tasted. Deg 2/2016, it will be sold to us in June. Amazingly it’s 57% 2012 and 43% ’11. 36% Meunier, 34% PN and 30% CH, much more than usual. It’s racy and salty and has zero pyrazine; an almost minty back-palate, a surprisingly silvery palate overall; a leap to a new level with this wine, among the few best NVs in the offering.
Arrives “red” and departs “white.” 2012 is da man.
Three things to bear in mind. One, most of the vineyards are in Cumières, and this is among the steepest and warmest communes in Champagne. Which leads to [two]; because of this, JB doesn’t do malo. The wines are ripe enough. Three, his Meunier is along lines of shiitake and soy yet this is wonderfully subtle in this assemblage, with all its Chardonnay.
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Press & Reviews
Juicy green pear, quince, grapefruit zest and dried apricot fruit flavors mix with an aromatic streak of minerality and lightly chalky acidity in this well-meshed, lively Champagne. Drink now through 2017. –AN
(43% pinot meunier, 32% pinot noir and 25% chardonnay; 65% of the fruit was from 2010 and the rest from 2009 and 2008; disgorged in July, 2013 after 30 months on its lees): Pale onion skin color. Aromas of fresh pear, lemongrass and lime zest, with a hint of jasmine. Juicy and penetrating, with tangy citrus and orchard fruit and flavors underscored by a note of chalky minerality. Finishes clean and racy, with lingering floral and gingery spice qualities.
This version of Geoffroy's non-vintage brut is notable for its lower percentage of meunier (32), as well as its increased percentage of reserve wine (30), which, as usual, is made up of last year's blend of Expression. To me, this cuvée has become more overtly refined over the years—this edition still feels extroverted and gregarious in the Geoffroy style, but there's a marked finesse about the bold, red-fruit flavors that wasn't always present before, and a wonderful balance between the ripeness of fruit and the citrusy, mandarin orange-like acidity. It's earthy and broad on the palate but never rustic, and it's already showing terrifically well even though it's only just been released. While Geoffroy has recently been using only MCR (concentrated and rectified must) for his dosage, this wine was dosed with a traditional liqueur: "I tried MCR," he says, "but for whatever reason it didn't seem to integrate very well with the wine this year, so I went back to liqueur." Could this be a factor contributing to the unusual harmony of this wine? Last tasted: 3/10