Champagne Cuvee de Reserve Brut, Milan
Cote de Blancs
This is done in old barriques they buy from Meursault; a blend of ‘03-‘02; as you know
I need an oaky wine to overcome my innate resistance, as this one does. The woodsiness
here almost registers as a Meunier-pumpernickel, and there’s a strangely intriguing alliance of ‘03’s wet-hay ripeness with 2002’s birchy silvery green mineral profile; it’s not as tight and seamless as last year’s, and the front palate is as luxurious as foie gras, but the oak retreats from sip to sip, and this will make superb drinking with 3-5 years laying-down. It, not you.
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