Champagne ‘Cuvee de Jean Fanniere Origine’ Extra Brut, Varnier-Fanniere
cépage 100% Chardonnay
assemblage 33% 2008, 33% 2009, 33% 2010
info/source 100% Cramant from a single climat called Chemin de Chalons
élevage Stainless Steel
sur latte 54+ Months
Cote de Blancs
The homage to Gramps is the driest wine in the range (other than two Brut zeroes) and this is the best edition I’ve ever had of it. It’s now 100% Cramant (Chemins de Chalons), deg 12/2015, and amazingly 60% 2011 and 40% 2012. The climat is on the flat land just over the border from Avize—and remember, the locals claim the chalk is most vivid and the topsoil shallowest in the flat vineyards, not the sexy-looking ones up on the slope.
At last, a healthy ’11—no critters in sight. Superb balance, precise, doughy and creamy, with Cramant wintergreen and green tea; detailed, classy, chalky; the dryness expresses as carbonized mineral and even graphite. I don’t know how he did it, but I’m glad!
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