Champagne Brut Selection, Hebrart
65% Pinot Noir (and again 70-30 between ‘05-‘04) and 35% Chardonnay (again all ‘05), and this was more graceful and unified despite even more recent disgorgement—1/08, so go figure. It’s considerably chalkier than usual, high-toned lemon and mirabelle; wonderful length and shimmer; I don’t recall a better bottling of this lovely Champagne.
cépage 70% old-vines Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay
assemblage 75% 2010, and 25% 09-08
info/source 70% old-vines Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Oiry and Chouilly
élevage Stainless Steel
sur latte 49 Months
Vallee de la Marne
One of my perennial favorite wines in the entire offering, one my own cellar is full of, and one of the top values. 55% of the assemblage is 2011. (The rest is 24% ’10 and 21% ’09.) All its usual elements are in place & the finish is beautiful. Old-vines PN from Mareuil, and Grand Cru CH from Oiry and Chouilly. 70/30. Deg 10/27/15
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Press & Reviews
A soft, caressing wine, the NV Brut Premier Cru Selection impresses for its soft, perfumed fruit and accessible, open personality. Quince, pears and dried flowers are some of the notes that take shape in the glass, but the Selection stands out mostly for its textural finesse. The blend is 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, which is naturally more pronounced in this bottling. This release is based on 2008, with 20% reserve wines from 2007 and 2006. Disgorgement date: May 10, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.
Lightly chalky in texture, this firm Champagne has mouthwatering acidity and flavors of apricot, yellow plum, star anise, shortbread biscuit and candied lemon zest. Deftly balanced, with a long, vibrant finish. Disgorged March 2012. Drink now through 2020. –AN
(65% pinot noir and 35% chardonnay, 80% from 2008 and the rest from 2007; aged for 49 months on its lees and disgorged in March, 2013): Light gold. High-pitched aromas of fresh pit and orchard fruits, with white pepper, redcurrant and floral accents. Juicy and bright in the mouth, offering tangy blood orange and pear flavors and a hint of ginger. Finishes racy, dry and very long, with lingering floral and mineral qualities and a touch of anise.
As usual, this is two-thirds pinot noir from old vines in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, with the rest made up of chardonnay from Oiry and Chouilly. It’s based on 2006, with 35 percent of reserve wines from 2005 and 2004, and while it’s still quite wound-up and tense, it hints at an energetic, red-fruit depth and a subtle complexity of flavor waiting to emerge. The finish is lively and kinetic, tethered by chalky minerality, and it should only become more expressive and more harmonious with further post-disgorgement age. Last tasted: 3/10
The NV Brut Sélection is bright, focused and energetic. This release, which is based on 2008 vintage, has plenty of that vintage's signatures in its tense style. Green pears, apples, white flowers and crushed rocks are woven into the vibrant finish. The Sélection is 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, 80% 2008 and 20% 2007/2009. This bottle was disgorged in March 2013.