Champagne Blanc de Blancs ‘Grand Reserve 1864’, Milan
cépage 100% Chardonnay
assemblage 50% 2006, 50% 2007
info/source 100% Oger Grand Cru
élevage Used Barrique
sur latte 84 Months
Cote de Blancs
Remember, it’s a cask-vinified long-aged late-disgorged old-school rural woodsy Champagne, aged agrafé (on the lees under
cork not crown cap), which makes for a lot more soulful oxidation and a lot more bottle variation—but the 5-6 bottles I’ve had in the last year have “varied” from excellent to superb.
The new assemblage is 2006/2007 and seems less archaic than it once was. It’s also more reliable, and is noteworthy for its
seriousness and dignity; it fits in the mold of Aubry’s Dualis in its smoky countrified richness, while remaining meditative and
soulful. Deg 10/2014
Request a shelf talker/case card
Press & Reviews
The NV Brut Grand Reserve 1864 is another hauntingly beautiful wine great with exquisite inner perfume and lovely softness in its fruit. Aging in oak gives the wine a little more inner sweetness and spiciness, but the oak is very well balanced. Mirabelle plums, kirsch and jasmine are some of the nuances that linger on the haunting finish. The current release is a blend of vintages 2000 and 2001. This bottle was disgorged on July 12, 2011. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.
(all Oger fruit; disgorged in June, 2013 after eight years on its lees): Green-tinged yellow. Pungent scents of musky citrus fruits, jasmine and smoky minerals, with a deeper passion fruit quality coming up with aeration. Intense lemon curd and tropical fruit flavors show impressive clarity, with a note of candied ginger adding complexity and bite. Smoothly melds vivacity and power and finishes with excellent focus and mineral-driven persistence.